This 24V 350W controller is designed to manage the power to a 24-volt brushed DC motor in the range of 250–350 watts. It’s an ideal replacement or component for an e-bike using the MY1016 24V 350W motor or even the 250W version (it can handle both, just having a bit of extra headroom).
Key characteristics: - Voltage & Power: 24V input, able to supply roughly 350W. That corresponds to about 15A continuous current (350W/24V ≈ 14.6A). It likely can handle peak currents a bit higher (maybe 30A momentarily) but will limit or cut if too long. - PWM Control: Uses pulse-width modulation to vary motor speed in response to a throttle signal. The throttle is the typical 3-wire Hall effect throttle from an e-bike. The controller outputs +5V to the throttle, reads back the variable signal (~1-4V) to know how much to drive the motor. - Wiring: - Thick Red and Black wires go to the battery (with Red possibly through an on/off switch loop). - Thick Blue and Yellow (for example) go to the motor + and - (since it's a brushed controller, polarity determines direction; the wires may be labeled or you flip if needed). - A bunch of thinner wires for signals: - Throttle (often a 3-pin connector: Red, Green, Black). - Brake levers (2-pin connectors, often two of them to connect both left & right brakes). - If present, a charging port or power lock connection (some controllers have a separate connector for the charging jack or keyswitch). - Possibly an LED display connector (on lower power controllers, sometimes a 2-wire or 3-wire for a basic battery level LED indicator or headlight). - In a 350W simple controller, not all fancy features exist, but definitely throttle and brake connectors do. - Low Voltage Cutoff (LVC): ~21V, which is standard to protect a 24V battery (especially 6-cell SLA or 7s Li-ion). - Dimensions: smaller than the 800W one, maybe about 85 x 65 x 30 mm, making it easy to fit on an e-bike controller case. - Mounting: usually just by screw holes on the case or a mounting flange. It should be placed where it gets some airflow but also away from water. - Protection: likely includes basic protections: fuse or fuse link (some have an in-line fuse on the battery input wire), over-current limiting (limiting to ~18A or so), thermal cutback if it overheats (some have a thermistor on board). - Usage: Hook it up to a 24V battery pack, a 250W or 350W motor, the throttle on the handlebars, and the brake switches. When the rider twists the throttle, the controller drives the motor proportionally. If a brake is pressed, it immediately stops driving the motor (and might short the motor for braking if designed to do so, but many just cut power). - It may also have outputs for tail-lights or indicator lights, but at this power level, often not.
For someone upgrading a basic e-bike or building a small go-kart, this controller is the right match for motors like the MY1016 (brushed). It's small, inexpensive, and straightforward. Running a motor significantly above 350W with it (like hooking a 500W motor) could stress it and lead to overheating or shorter life, as its MOSFETs are sized for ~15-20A. Conversely, using it with a 250W motor is fine, the controller will just never max out its capability fully.
