E-bike MY1016 24v 250W Dc Speed Controller

This controller is essentially the "stock" controller you would find on a low-power electric bicycle or scooter that runs on 24V. It's perfectly matched to motors around 250 Watts (which at 24V is ~10.5A). 

Focus features: - Voltage/Power: 24V, ~250W. Likely limited to about 12A max. So if the motor tries to draw more (like climbing a steep hill), it might cap it around 12A to protect itself and the motor. That limit also doubles as an "acceleration softness" – it won't jerk with too high current. - Physical size: Very compact, maybe ~70 x 50 x 30 mm, since it doesn't have to dissipate a lot of heat (250W only ~maybe 2-5W waste heat in MOSFETs if any). - Typical Wires: - Battery + (red) and - (black), perhaps 16AWG wires. - Motor + (blue) and - (yellow) same gauge as battery. - Thin Red (ignition) – often these smaller controllers come "always on" when battery connected or sometimes with a separate red ignition wire that you tie to battery + through a switch (or the keyswitch on throttle). - Throttle: 3 wires (with perhaps colors red, black, green). - Brake: 2 wires (most e-bikes with 250W have at least one brake input). - PAS sensor input: some 250W controllers, especially in e-bikes for compliance, have a 3-pin connector for a pedal assist sensor (which reads a magnet disk at the crank). - Maybe outputs for lights or horn (some have a horn connector 2-pin to power a small 24V buzzer, and a 2-pin for "headlight" that is just battery output switched by the controller's board if it has that function). - If it’s a kit marketed controller, likely minimal: throttle, brake, battery, motor, maybe a power lock. - Low Voltage: ~21V cutoff as usual for 24V. - High Voltage tolerance: Usually up to ~30V safe. One might run them at 28.8V (24V SLA charging) with no issue. - Functional Behavior: - Soft start: It might have ramping to avoid immediate full current. - When e-brake line is activated (usually closed-circuit style, meaning normally the two brake wires are connected until brake lever is pulled, which opens them, signaling a brake; or the opposite normally open style – it depends on design, but often it’s low = run, high = brake or vice versa), it cuts output. - If a PAS is present: If pedals turning, it gives moderate output (depending on design, older ones just give a preset speed when pedaling). - Over current: It will chop the PWM to limit current to ~12A. - MOSFET: Possibly 6 x 50V MOSFETs or 3 x better ones. Because low voltage, they might use low Rds_on ones. - Use case: Exactly controlling a MY1016 250W on a small e-bike (like those old school bikes or kids scooters). It won't be overkill for that motor; it's right at spec. It can also run a smaller motor like a 150W or 100W, no problem – it will just not reach 12A because motor can't draw that under normal load. - People often buy these as cheap replacements if their stock controller dies, because it's straightforward and low cost.