This 48V 800W controller steps up the power from the 24V/350W units to accommodate higher voltage and current, targeting more powerful e-bike setups or light electric motorcycles.
Core attributes: - Voltage: 48V nominal (which is ~54.6V full charge for li-ion, or 4x12V lead acid ~ at 4x 14V = 56V full). - Power/Current: 800W output means ~16.7A at 48V. The controller will likely be built with MOSFETs and capacitors rated for 63V or 75V. It can probably handle bursts up to 30A or so (which at 48V is ~1440W peak). Many “800W” controllers actually can serve 1000W motors, as long as the current is within limits, because 1000W at 48V is ~20.8A, which is close. - Low Voltage Cutoff: likely around 42V (which corresponds to 3.5V/cell for a 13s Li-ion pack, or roughly the 80% depth for SLA). This prevents over-discharging a 48V battery. - Throttle Interface: Standard 3-wire hall throttle (5V, gnd, signal). Possibly the controller’s 5V line is a little more robust to supply things like LED displays as well. - Brake Interface: Yes, at least one pair for e-brakes, possibly two in parallel (to connect both levers). - Motor outputs: Since it’s a brushed controller, just two output wires (but heavier gauge, e.g., 12AWG or 10AWG since current ~20-30A). - Reverse: Quite possible it has a reverse function (common on higher power controllers, often a pair of wires that if connected will reverse polarity to motor). - 3-Speed or Booster: Some 48V controllers include a 3-speed switch input (High, Medium, Low speed presets, basically a couple of wires that connect through resistors or fixed to ground to limit throttle). If present, there’d be a 3-wire or 2-wire connector labeled something like “High speed, Low speed”. - Cruise or PAS: If marketed for e-bike, might have pedal-assist sensor input or cruise control input (some have a connector for the PAS sensor disc and an optional cruise button). - Construction: Slightly larger/heavier than lower voltage controllers because it uses more MOSFETs in series or higher voltage ones which may produce more heat at high currents. The aluminum case is finned for cooling. Usually potted or at least conformal coated inside for vibration. - Wire Harness: - Battery: Red(+) and Black(-) thick wires (should be maybe 10AWG). - Motor: likely Blue(+) and Yellow(-) thick wires (10AWG). - Throttle: maybe a 3-pin SM connector with Red, Black, Green (or blue). - Brake: 2-pin connectors, often Black & White (x2). - Reverse: 2-pin (often Blue & Black or similar). - Power lock / ignition: often a small Red wire that needs to be connected to battery positive via a switch or the key lock on throttle. - Possibly connectors for: Charger (some controllers have a charging port pass-through or just label one to connect a charger), LED display or battery indicator (like 48V LED trio). - Protection: Over-current (will limit or cut if > ~30-35A to protect transistors), LVC as mentioned, likely a fuse to be added externally. - Indicator: Many 48V controllers have an “LED code” or just cut-off if overheated. Some very advanced ones might flash an LED code, but the simpler ones just quietly protect.
This controller paired with a MY1016 at 48V would heavily overdrive it (since that motor is rated 24V 350W normally; at 48V, it could output ~4x power if current allowed, which is why the user might choose an 800W controller to intentionally overvolt the motor or drive a bigger motor like MY1020 500W). The result is a much faster or stronger e-bike or small vehicle.
It’s often used by hobbyists converting bikes or building go-karts because 48V is a sweet spot for power vs weight, and many off-the-shelf e-bike kits at 48V exist.
